designer challenge

Aurifil Designer Challenge with Ethne

This is probably the last finished project of this year – the Fat Quarterly Aurifil Challenge.

In the meantime I’d better introduce myself – my name is Ethne, and I blog at Flaming Stitches.  I’ve crafted in one format or another, pretty much all my life.  In the early years it was knitting and crocheting, but on one visit to one of those big Hobby Craft Exhibitions, I fell in love with some fabrics.  Picked a pattern and in 3 weeks pulled together a quilt for my niece.  To be honest I hadn’t a clue what I was doing.  The front is piece correctly but the sandwiching, well I tried to put it together like a quilt.  Years later I’m still trying to get it off my niece, no luck, she loves the quilt.  I’ve learnt the correct way to do things now but still experiment in what I’m doing, and work often using instinct.

This project / challenge is a good example of me going with my gut instinct, in both the design and the quilting – I hope you like it.

So back in this post I mentioned receiving a set of Aurifil threads to try out.  After deliberating for a few days I finally decided on a cushion for this challenge, and, taking into account next years Free Bee virtual quilting bee, I thought I’d also use this project as a bit of a tester for a possible block option – the freeform hourglass block.

The idea was to make 5 blocks as a panel for the front of the cushion.  These freeform hourglass blocks were sewn together and for any of you wanting to have a go at something similar I have created a little tutorial for this block here.  When the 5 blocks were sewn together border / framing strips added.  Batting added, (Dream Poly, basted into position using washable PVA glue, used sparingly).  Then I started quilting using the Aurifil threads.

Firstly, it was the 40 weight red thread for the ovals framing the hourglass blocks and forming a zone for the front feathers which were quilted using the 50 weight thread.  Now this is the first time ever that I’ve used this thread, and it was smooth, and I mean smooth.

close up of cushion front

first FMQ'd feather

Though the thread is fine it is strong and flows freely and smoothly through the needle and fabric sandwich.  It was so easy and comfortable doing the ovals that when it came to quilting something into the elliptical shape left in the central zone, instinct took over and I ended up quilting my first feather.  Now I have been sketching feathers on paper, doodles really, for a while but they never seemed to work out smoothly when sewing the LHS.  You see I would draw the RHS first but never got the left to mirror it properly, I’d always over think it.  However when it came to sewing, the RHS worked out really well and the LHS followed nicely too.

So when completed I decided to do larger feathers on the two back panels, one above and one below the zip/seam.
last feather
back panel
cushion back
Just to make sure I got a good feel for the differences in threads I decided to use another cotton thread (grey) for other background quilting – and I can honestly say that there is a difference, a notable difference.  The thread worked fine, it did it’s job, but it didn’t feel as silky smooth to use in comparison to the Aurifil thread.

So in conclusion I can say that I will be slowly starting to build a stock of the Aurifil threads – probably the 40 weight for quilting and piecing, but if necessary the heavier grade for piecing if necessary in projects like bags. So if you get a chance buy a spool and try it out for yourself.  And thank you Fat Quarterly for the opportunity to try the threads out.

finished cushion

So in conclusion here’s a photo of the cushion, completed and washed.

finished cushion back
So remember to visit the Fat Quarterly blog again to see what other bloggers think of the Aurifil threads and what projects they created using them.

signature panel

Red Hot, Sunshine Melody and Caribbean Dreams

Caught your attention ?

Recently the Fat Quarter Team entrusted me with some Aurifil Thread in a Designer Challenge. The brief was to create something using either one or all of the provided gorgeous Aurifil threads.

I have become aware of Aurifil thread sometime last year or even the year before and I believe it was first at the Birmingham quilt festival. It has become increasingly popular and many quilters are praising its qualities in the highest tones. I have already worked with Aurifil threads before but mainly for piecing purposes for which I very much love it as it produces less lint than my usual Guetermann 50 thread.

The threads I was given were a selection of 50, 40, 28 and 12 weight. The 12 weight thread was wool in a rich matt yellow that immediately caught my eye.  I pondered for a few weeks about which projects would be good to showcase the threads best apart from using decorative stitches (which I did as well with the light green but I get to that in a later post) and finally decided on making myself some new cushions for my living room sofa.  The three pillows I produced are all made in the same pattern; the front a lock cabin pattern and the back a simple 9 patch. The quilting is also the same in all three. The fronts are done in a concentric circle and the backs in a diagonal crosshatch pattern.  This little number here is called “Red Hot” and is made of 6 different shades of red.  I quilted and pieced this pillow with the 40 weight thread in red and loved working with it though I do prefer a thicker thread for quilting normally. All reds are Kona Cotton and are from existing stock.

“Caribbean Dreams” was pieced with the 50 weight Aurifil thread in green but I used a thicker No 16 Perle thread for quilting as the quilting with the 50 weight fibre would have been to subtle on the pillow and would have missed the effect I wanted to achieve.   The colours of this pillow are so rich and really transport me to my next holiday destination in my dreams and brings visions of warm days, the beach and turquoise blue waters….. all a far cry from typical UK winter weather. The fabric used for “Caribbean Dreams” consists of a selection of Kona solids and Freespirit Designer Solids from my existing stock.
I titled pillow number three “Summer Melody” with its six different shades of summer yellows. It is such a warm and inviting pillow. I pieced this pillow with a normal Aurifil 50 weight thread (not from above selection) but quilted it with the wool weight 12 in yellow on my machine ! At first I thought the thread would not be able to withstand the strain of machine stitching but it was no problem with two little adjustments to the settings; one was to use a top stitch needle because of the thickness of the thread and two was to reduce stitching speed somwhat. The thread worked fantastically and really gives the pillow a beautiful texture. All fabric used for this pillow are again Kona solids and Freespirit Designer solids from existing stock.

The verdict is that I loved working with the threads and I was impressed with all of them but perhaps mostly with the woollen one though admittedly one would not use it for larger quilting projects. I will  try in the  future some of the 28 weight colours for quilting purposes in addition to the 50 weight Aurifil I already use for piecing.

And here they are all three together:

Front
Back

Aurifil Designer Challenge by Nicolette

Hi, my name is Nicolette Jansen, I’m Dutch, living in The Netherlands and blogging over at dutchcomfort. I was really excited that Lynne gave me a chance to participate in the Fat Quarterly/Aurifil Designer challenge.


After I received the sample pack of Aurifil threads I discovered some wonderful Finnish Marimekko fabrics in my stash that suited the colours of the threads really well. I decided to make a 16″ cushion cover and added some off-white linen to let the design sparkle.

I pieced the front using Aurifil 40 wt and a 70/10 Microtex Needle.


I made a little quilt sandwich to test the fabrics, threads, thread-tensions and needles. I made notes of what I do and therefore this sandwich is a wonderful source of information when I start another project.


One of the linen pieces was machine quilted with a straight stitch and the yellow woolen thread (12 wt) and a 90/14 topstitch needle. Needles to say that the pictures don’t do the quilting justice.


The three circles are machine appliqued with a blanket stitch and the 12 wt yellow woolen thread using a 90/14 top stitch needle.


This thread was also used to handquilt in the printed fabric piece


and to make some decorative stitches.

I machine quilted straight lines with the variegated thread (12 wt) and a 90/14 topstitch needle


echo quilted around the circles

and quilted by hand around the printed shapes in the fabric. The dark red thread (40 wt) was used to machine quilt in the prints along the lines.

To avoid threads from puckering I constantly used the 40 wt dark red thread in the bobbin of the sewing machine. I love the back of the cushion cover front because it gives the best idea of what I did.


The front of the cushion cover.


The finished cushion,


And the back with an envelope closure.  All the threads worked like a charm! The 50 wt thread works really well for hand applique and piecing, the 40 wt thread for piecing and to get a delicate quiltstitch, the 28wt for quilting, it’s a bit thicker and shows well on the fabric and the12 wt (the cotton as well as the woolen thread) is wonderful for handquilting, embroiderie and machine-quilting. This thread is really visible because of it’s thickness.

Aurifil, Fat Quarterly and Lynne, thanks for inviting me to take part in this challenge!

Nicolette

Aurifil Designer Challenge by Siobhan

Not long ago I was asked to participate in a
challenge with Fat Quarterly
Magazine
– I jumped at the chance to finally use
some
Aurifil threads, I had heard a bit of buzz
& I was curious.

When I received the threads I was surprised
& happy with the colour selections, perfect for a bit of Linen and
Liberty.

Now going back
a while when I was at Calico &
Ivy
Balmain I spotted a lovely light quilt, when I looked
closely I discovered it was a bag quilt.

Then again recently (within the last yr! I
lose track of time) on Red
Pepper Quilts
– Rita had a similar concept with a no binding
quilt.
I loved the concept especially in Australia
when it really doesn’t get cold & I have been meaning to experiment
for ages…………

so finally with my Aurifil threads in hand I
gave it a go :)
This is it!
Have to say its a style of Quilt that I’m
planning on doing quite a bit of.

a bit of double sided fusing & Liberty
& Line
The blue you see here is a wool
thread
The orange is a 50 weight
cotton
some Paris maps prints to frame it
all
& some cornflower blue honeycomb
& more Paris maps for the back

If your looking at doing a bag quilt (or no
binding quilt) its much like making a bag or pillow.
sew your front and back with right sides
together, leaving a little hole. Then pull it all through -
Voila!
This one is a nice big cot size – perfect
for summer, the weight of the linen is perfect.
to hold it all together I stitched around
the outer edges. It will need ironing once It’s washed, but a quick iron
will be easy enough.
The colour palette of the threads are
fantastic
thanks to Fat Quarterly team for the chance
to use the Aurifil threads :)


Xx Siobhan

Aurifil Designer Challenge with Elizabeth Don’t Call Me Betsy

I had so much fun working on Fat Quarterly’s Aurifil Thread Challenge.  Despite the excitement I felt when I opened the package of gorgeous, colorful threads, it took me a little while to figure out what I wanted to use them for.  First, I visited Aurifil’s website to better understand the different weights of thread, which was very educational.  My thread package included two spools of 12 wt thread, best for embellishment, one 28 wt hand quilting thread, one 50 wt piecing thread, and one 40 wt machine quilting thread.

I can’t quite remember where I first fell in love with the traditional Weathervane block, but it’s been on my quilty bucket list for a long time.  I decided I would make a small table runner with two blocks, and set about to find some fabrics that would work well with the bright thread colors.  I pulled together some fabrics and got to cutting.

First, I wound up the black 50 wt piecing thread in a bobbin.  I have to say, winding bobbins is usually a very boring task, but this time it was kind of interesting – as the thread wound onto the bobbin, it was practically silent.  Not that my machine is usually noisy, but it’s never been silent like this before.  The same happened when I wound a bobbin with the hot pink 40 wt machine quilting thread. I loaded up my piecing thread and got to piecing.  Again, my machine was quieter than it’s ever been while piecing.  It was almost as though I wasn’t sewing at all, the thread just glided through my machine so quietly!

Granted, piecing with black thread wasn’t maybe the best idea in the world, since it showed through a little bit after pressing my pieces, but I actually kind of like the defined look it wound up giving my pieces.  Next, I started quilting, using the hot pink 40 wt thread.  I did immediately notice a difference in the way the thread appeared on my fabric – it had a more raised, noticeable appearance.  I had zero tension problems and the quilting was truly enjoyable.

I wasn’t sure if the 28 wt green thread would be compatible in my machine, since it wasn’t entirely clear from what I read about it, but I thought I’d give it a try, since I’m practically allergic to hand-stitching.  I loaded up a bobbin, and started adding a simple decorative stitch around the border of my runner.

I had two spools of 12 wt thread, one varigated neutral thread and one bright blue.  I opted to go with the bright blue and threaded one of my hand-quilting needles.  I have only hand-quilted with Perle cotton previously, and while the look of hand-quilting with Perle cotton is a bit different, I do really like the look of my truly wonky hand quilting stitches with this thread.

All in all, I suppose my favorite thread was the piecing thread, but that’s primarily because at least 70% of the sewing I do is piecing.  Each thread was different and unique and offered a different finished look, and I really like the versatility.  I really enjoyed participating in this challenge, and I can definitely say I will use Aurifil threads again in the future!  Thank you so much for the opportunity to participate, Fat Quarterly and Aurifil!

Twas the Night Before Christmas

Twas the night before Christmas, when all through the house,
Not a creature was stirring, not even a mouse.
The stockings were hung by the chimney with care,
In the hopes that St Nicholas soon would be there.

I put down some whisky, some carrots and pies,
All ready for Santa, a feast for his eyes.
Then I looked at the scene with a note of dismay,
“Something is missing”, a voice seemed to say.

“When I ride through the night on my big wooden sleigh,
I could do with a pillow where my head could lay”.
I rushed to my sewing room, quick as a flash,
And rummaged around in my copious stash.

And there just the thing for this big stocking filler,
Was some fabric I’d wangled from Melody Miller.
Ruby Star Rising and Shining so bright,
A perfect  selection for midwinter’s night.

These aren’t Christmas colours”, I said to myself,
But I thought they were perfect for such a great elf.
So I cut out some Kona in quarter inch strips,
Sewed them onto the Ruby Spring quickety quick.

I added some strips about two inches wide,
Then I added a couple more strips on the side.
I was singing some carols about love and peace,
As I ironed the top to some fusible fleece.

Next I rummaged around in my threadbox so nifty,
And settled on some of my Aurifil 50.
I quilted and bound it and backed it at last,
For I heard reindeer approaching ever so fast.

I tiptoed downstairs, placed it right on the hearth,
Just in time to hear Santa Claus’ big belly laugh.
“Ho Ho Ho,” said the big man, “What on earth have we here.
A pillow for me? Why thank you my dear.”

“I get really tired, flying all through the night,
And the pillow you’ve made me is such a sweet sight.
When I’ve stopped at each house and had one or two drinks,
I can lay down my head and enjoy forty winks.”

And thus I began a new Christmas tradition,
A pillow to help the big man on his mission.
And so if you really and truly believe,
Make a pillow for Santa on each Christmas Eve.

I wanted to chat to Saint Nicholas more,
But I saw he was soon heading out of the door.
Pray tarry St Nicholas, chat for a while,
“I’ve got work to do”, he said with a smile.

“I’ve got to deliver all of these toys,
To hundreds and thousands of good girls and boys.
So off I must go without any delay,
And get this lot sorted before Christmas Day.”

He sprang to his sleigh, to his team gave a whistle,
And away they all flew like the down of a thistle.
But I heard him exclaim, ‘ere he drove out of sight,
“Happy Christmas to all, and to all a good-night!”

12 Days of Ruby Star | Melody’s Signature Headscarf

1
Happy Christmas Eve!  On this 12th day of Ruby Star, I’m going to show you how to make a classic Melody Miller headscarf out of Ruby Star fabric.

First, download and print your template.  Be sure to print at full scale!  Now, cut along the diagonal line that best describes your head (pixie, melody size, or big hair!)

Fold your fabric in half and align the short end of the triangle with your fold.  Use a straight edge and rotary cutter to cut 1/4″ outside the 2 long edges of the triangle.  (Sadly, the 8.5″ x 11″ paper template isn’t big enough for my seam allowances. You have no idea how this disappoints me:)

2
The next part is the easiest ever. For heavier-weight fabrics from my fall lines, simply fold and iron all three edges back toward the wrong side of the fabric by 1/4″. A little starch will give you nice crisp edges. Trim away any wonky points. Then do a nice wide zig-zag stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance around all three edges capturing the folded edge on the back.

Alternately, you can first zig-zag stitch or serge the three edges and then fold back by 1/4″.  If you do this, you can stitch the folds down with a decorative stitch.  See… fancy!

3

Now all you have to do is attach a ribbon.  You’ll need about 40″ for this project. For some reason I seem to have a lot of sheer ribbon (probably because it’s always in the dollar bin at Michael’s), so that’s what I like to use.  I would recommend avoiding slippery satin ribbons because it may come untied and awkward social situations will ensue.  Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Fold your ribbon in half and pinch a crease in the center. Line up this crease with the center of your scarf. Stitch the ribbon down along the longest edge of the triangle, as close to the edge of the fabric as you can get it. I like to stitch both long sides of the ribbon down to the fabric.

4
You can see the design of the fabric through the ribbon.  Isn’t that pretty?

And… voila!  You have a classic Melody Miller headscarf!

Okay, I’m gonna show you one more thing: how to make a reversible scarf with a pretty trim. It’s easy-peasy. Cut out 2 fabrics using your template. If you have a pretty piece of trim, pin it to the long side of one of the triangles, about 1/2″ away from the edge.

5
Sew the trim down. Put this triangle right-sides-together with the other, and sew all the way around with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Leave a 4″ opening on one of the short sides.  Turn the scarf right side out, and press. Topstitch along all 3 sides with a 1/8″ seam allowance, closing the 4″ opening.  Attach ribbon to the opposite side from the trim according to the instructions above.
6
Now, let’s talk about the most important part of this project: how to wear your scarf.  I have many years of experience under my belt, and I’m willing to share some of my best tips here.

1) Do your ears poke out? Mine do. Make sure the scarf sits on top of your ears. See? Problem solved.

2) Does pulling baby hairs out of the back of your neck not sound like a good time?  Pin your hair up quickly before you tie the scarf on.  Then you can tie it happily with all your hair out of the way.  Do you look extra-awesome now? Leave your hair pinned up!  Not so much? Let it back down.

3) Do you look like you’re ready for a day of yard work?  Well, change your clothes, lady. Wear a cute outfit with your scarf… hello.

4) Having weird face or hair shape issues? (We never said this was effortless).  Push the scarf back so the front of your hair will show.  Don’t tie it too tight unless that flatters you, whereupon tie it tighter! Move your hair around until it has the right shape in combo with your scarf.  There, that’s better.

I hope to see lots of pics of people sporting their new scarves… Happy Holidays!

12 Days of Ruby Star | Shruti’s Samosa Wristlet

I am Shruti and I live on the other side of the world (well, from most of you), in India. I blog at 13 Woodhouse Road.I was awed when I opened my blue envelope from Melody. I think its the most awesome-st (is that even a word?) fabric I have laid my hands on… And guess what? Its not even on the market yet!

Yeah, I received 2 wonderful generous fabric cuts of Ruby Star Shining!

Here’s my simple recipe for making some fun “Samosa” wristlets!

Step # 1 : Cut your fabric

You’ll need
Two  6.5″ squares from the outer fabric – I have fussy cut the typewriters
Two 6.5″ squares from the lining fabric – I used the floral fabric
Two 2.5″ x 3.5″ for the zipper ends
One 2″ x 12.5″ strip for the loop
One 7″ zipper – I used a larger one and trimmed it down.

Step # 2 : Pressing

Fold all the 4 squares 1/4″ and press along one edge. If you are using a directional print like me, make sure you press the TOP edge.

Also press two of the opposite edges of the 3″ squares 1/4″

Step # 3 : Zipper

Pin and sew the 2.5″ x 3.5″ strip to the end of the zipper as shown.

Lay the zipper on the 6.5″ square as shown and trim it down to size.

Attach the other 2.5″ x 3.5″ fabric to the other side. And trim it to the zipper width.

Now it looks nice, doesn’t it?

Now attach your zipper foot to the machine and sew the zipper to the lining and outer fabric in that order. Now you’ll know why I pressed that 1/4″ on one side. I just align it with the zipper and sew!

Dont worry if your pouch does not stay flat! It wont matter.

Repeat on the other side.

You do not need to trim the ends of the zipper, but if you must, trim them at least 1/2″ beyond the edge of the fabric.

Step # 4 : Making the loop

Make the loop as you like. I just folded the selvedge over and stitched it. You can use a ribbon or even left over binding!

Step # 5 : Finish the pouch!

OPEN the zipper. (You’ll thank me for saying this)

Lay the pouch as shown (both lining pieces RIGHT side together and both outer fabric Right Side Together) and sew the BOTTOM edges of the lining fabric together leaving a 2.5″ opening to turn out the pouch.

Repeat with the outer fabric without the opening.

Insert the loop one one SIDE and baste it between the two outer fabric pieces.

Sew along the side starting from the bottom edge towards the zipper. Sew as close to the zipper as you can, backstitching at both ends and over the loop.

DO NOT stitch OVER the zipper.
Now fold the other side of the pouch such that the zipper is at the center of the fold

Pin in place and stitch along the edges backstitching at both ends.

Now turn your pouch inside out. Poke the corners out and topstitch the opening.

Your Samosa is ready!

You can even make a coin pouch from 4 charm squares and a few scraps. Or you can use scraps to make a block of your choice and trim it down to 6.5″ square for the outer fabric!
Go ahead! Make those lovely samosas for your dear ones. Once you get the hang of it, you can make one in about 15 minutes!!! And dont you worry about making it perfect… As Takashi Nakamura says, “If you ever come across a piece of pottery that is perfect, you can be confident that it was produced by a machine. With pottery, you must seek near perfection. If you look carefully enough, you will always find some slight blemish that serves to remind us that the piece was crafted by a human hand. The longer you have to search, the greater the craftman, for it was only Giotto who was able to draw the perfect circle.”
Now dont go scratching your brains about who Nakamura was, he is a character in Jeffrey Archer’s False Impression! I just finished reading it!
Merry Christmas!!!

12 Days of Ruby Star | Sha’s iPad Case

Surprise, Fat Quarterly readers!  Today is our second double project day in the 12 Days of Ruby Star, with Sharon’s take on an iPad case to complement the one from Amber posted earlier today.  Between the two tutorials, we hope you can find one to best meet your favorite sewing styles.  Enjoy!

Hi Everyone! I am thrilled to be here on FatQuarterly! My name is Sha and I blog at Craizee Corners.

Here’s a little fact about me…I am ’Craizee’ about zippered bags. I make them in all different shapes and sizes. One of the my favorite bags to make is for my IPad, I like to change the case like I change purses, in other words to fit my mood and maybe to match my outfit. I am going to show you how I make IPad cases.

Materials needed:

  • 1 zipper at least 12“
  • 1 – 1 ½” x 8” piece of fabric to match the zipper
  • Thread to match the zipper
  • 1 – 22″ x 26”pieces of fabric for the inside of the bag
  • 1 – 9 ½” x 11 ½” piece of fabric for the outside back (Piece B)
  • 1 – 22” x 26” batting
  • 1 – 9 ½” x 11 ½” front. This can be pieced however you want, but the end piece must be 9 ½” x 11 ½” (Piece A)
Assembly:
1. Take each 22” x 26” piece of batting and top with the 22” x 26” inside fabric with the right side of the fabric facing up. Cut 2 – 10” x 12”pieces.
2. Turn the pieces you just cut over and put the outside front piece (Piece A) face up on the batting side. Do the same with the second piece, but use the 9 ½” x 11 ½” outside back piece (piece B). You will have two 3 layered piece, with the batting in the middle and the right sides of the fabric facing out. The top piece will be slightly smaller than the batting and inside piece.
Quilt the 2 sandwiches anyway you would like, leaving at least ½” from the outside un-quilted.

Now you should have 2 pieces that look like this:

Note: some of the pics I took with the Ruby Star fabric didn’t turn out well, so I am using other photos for some of the steps.

Trim the top piece (with the fussy cut frame) to 9 ½” x 11” 1/2”. Then place the trimmed piece on top of other quilted piece and trim to match.
Preparing the Zipper:

Take the 1 ½” x 8” piece that matches the color of the zipper and press it in half width wise. Then open it up and press the sides to the center. This will be a double folded piece of bias tape. Cut into 2 – 4” pieces.



Sew across the zipper to keep the 2 pieces in place and then trim the close to the seam you just sewed. Then nestle the cut zipper piece inside the bias tape you just made and sew very close to the left side of the fold. No need for a zipper foot here. Trim the bias tape even with the edges of the zipper.


Measure across the top of the bag pieces, it should be 9 ½”, but measure to be sure. You want to cut the zipper 1” smaller than that measurement.

Note – Make sure the zipper pull is inside the zipper before you sew.

Repeat the steps above to prepare the zipper with the other side. Your zipper should now look like this:

Adding the zipper:

Note – you do not need a zipper foot for this but I do recommend you use your all purpose foot and not your ¼” foot. You will be doing a zig zag stitch and the  ¼”  foot might not be able to do a zig zag stitch.

Lay the front of the bag outside piece up on your surface. Put the zipper with the pull side down along the top edge of the front of your bag. Make sure the zipper is centered along the top (about ½” in from the sides).

Sew along the top edge halfway between the zipper teeth and the edge. Backstitch a few stitches at the beginning and end of the seam.

Now it’s time to finish that raw edge. Set your machine to the zig-zag stitch and sew. The left side of the stitch will be on the fabric and the right side will be right past the fabric so the entire raw edge will be covered. When done select the straight stitch again.


Flip the zipper up so it is above the front of the bag and with a straight stitch sew a line right below the zipper, making sure to catch the finished edge of the zipper underneath.

Repeat with the other side of the bag, being sure to attach the zipper to the outside part.
You will then have a piece that looks like this:
Finishing the bag:
Before you go any further make sure the zipper is at least ½” opened.
With the insides of the bag facing out (or right sides together) pin along the sides and bottom of the bag. At the bottom 2 corners measure ½” from each side of the corner. Draw a diagonal line between those 2 lines. Sew along the side, then along the diagonal, then along the bottom, other diagonal and the other side. Backstitch a few stitches at the start and finish. Trim along the diagonal lines.

Finish these raw edges with a zig zag stitch just like before.

Turn the bag right side out and you have a quilted IPad case.

Craizee Corners to see other tutorials, patterns and some fun giveaways, and tell me that Fat Quarterly sent you!

12 Days of Ruby Star | Amber’s iPad Case

Hello from sunny {well, usually..it’s rainy right now} Hawaii! I’m Amber from One Shabby Chick and I am thrilled to be here today to share this tutorial with all of you for the 12 days of Ruby Star.

I have this tutorial up on my blog but thought I’d change it up a bit with a patchwork front and Melody’s Ruby Star fabric lines are so perfect for that – such fun designs to mix and match!

An iPad cover Tutorial

Material list:

  • 6” piece of Iron-on Velcro
  • Fabric for outside pouch – you will need your improv block piece and one back piece that is 10” x 12” (we will be cutting them down after we quilt them – I like to leave a little room for quilting shrinkage)
  • Fabric for fold-over flap – two pieces that are 5.5” x 8”
  • Fabric for lining –2 pieces that are 9.5” x 11.5”
  • Scrap fabric for optional back pocket (my pocket measures 3” x 7.5” finished)
  • Batting – 2 pieces that are 10” x 12” for the outside pouch and one piece that is 5.5” x 8” for the fold-over flap
  • Fusible Fleece – 2 pieces that are 10” x 12” and one piece that is 5.5” x 8”
  • Matching thread (I used an off-white for the whole thing)

NOTE: Use a 1/4” seam allowance throughout unless otherwise specified

Making your cover:

  • Make an improv block piece that measures approx. 10” x 12”. I started with a fussy cut 5” square and then added pieces in until I got the size I wanted – like a rectangular log cabin block.

I also used some lightweight corduroy for the lining and back to give it a super-soft texture.

  • Iron your fusible fleece to the wrong side of both pieces of your outside fabric and one of your flap pieces.

  • Take your batting pieces that are 10” x 12” and position them under your fleece-lined outside fabric pieces. You can pin in a couple spots to ensure the fabric doesn’t slip.

  • Take your 5.5″ x 8″ batting and do the same with your fold-over flap piece.

  • Using your walking foot (a regular foot would be fine – a walking foot just helps all layers glide through the machine more smoothly), quilt your pieces.


I just started at the middle of my log cabin and sewed lines around the front, using my walking foot as a guide for the next line.

  • Quilt both outside pieces as well as the one piece of the fold-over flap that you attached the batting to.

You could do any type of quilting here – stippling, loops, diagonal quilting – I just chose to go with lines)

  • Trim quilted pieces to 9.5” x 11.5”.
  • If you are adding a back pocket, now it the time to sew it on to the back piece. Sew your pocket pieces right-sides together, leaving a small opening in the bottom for turning.
  • Turn right-sides out and iron.
  • Position pocket on your back piece and topstitch around the sides and bottom.

  • Place flap pieces right sides together and stitch along both sides and bottom, leaving top open. Turn right side out and use chopstick to gently push corners out.

  • Pin fold-over flap to the top edge of the back piece. Baste/sew using a 1/8” seam allowance.

  • Pin quilted fabric pieces right sides together (taking care if you are using a directional print to make sure it’s facing the right way) and sew along the two sides and bottom – re-enforcing the starting and ending points.

  • Leave top open.
  • Turn right sides out through top opening and use a chopstick (or a turning tool) to gently push out the corners. Iron top to help flatten it a bit.

  • Place lining pieces right sides together. Sew along sides and bottom of sandwich BUT leave a 6”-7” opening along the bottom {for turning cover right side out when it is all sewn together}. Do not turn lining right side out.
  • Place quilted fabric pouch inside your newly sewn lining pouch – right sides together.

  • Match up side seams and pin and then pin along the top edge at regular intervals.
  • Sew along the top edge with your walking foot using a 1/2” seam allowance. Go slowly since you are going through lots of layers…you may want to go around twice for added stability.
  • Pull quilted pouch out through opening in lining bottom.
  • Turn pouch right sides out and sew up hole in lining bottom.

  • Push lining into outside pouch and iron along top opening.

  • Topstitch around the entire top opening.

  • Fold over your flap and decide how tight you want your pouch to close – mark where you want your velcro to be on the front of your pouch and your flap piece.

  • Attach Velcro per iron-on instructions.

You’re done! Enjoy your new iPad cover!