Free project ideas

Happy Christmas Eve!  On this 12th day of Ruby Star, I’m going to show you how to make a classic Melody Miller headscarf out of Ruby Star fabric.

First, download and print your template.  Be sure to print at full scale!  Now, cut along the diagonal line that best describes your head (pixie, melody size, or big hair!)

Fold your fabric in half and align the short end of the triangle with your fold.  Use a straight edge and rotary cutter to cut 1/4″ outside the 2 long edges of the triangle.  (Sadly, the 8.5″ x 11″ paper template isn’t big enough for my seam allowances. You have no idea how this disappoints me:)

The next part is the easiest ever. For heavier-weight fabrics from my fall lines, simply fold and iron all three edges back toward the wrong side of the fabric by 1/4″. A little starch will give you nice crisp edges. Trim away any wonky points. Then do a nice wide zig-zag stitch with a 1/4″ seam allowance around all three edges capturing the folded edge on the back.

Alternately, you can first zig-zag stitch or serge the three edges and then fold back by 1/4″.  If you do this, you can stitch the folds down with a decorative stitch.  See… fancy!

Now all you have to do is attach a ribbon.  You’ll need about 40″ for this project. For some reason I seem to have a lot of sheer ribbon (probably because it’s always in the dollar bin at Michael’s), so that’s what I like to use.  I would recommend avoiding slippery satin ribbons because it may come untied and awkward social situations will ensue.  Don’t say I didn’t warn you.

Fold your ribbon in half and pinch a crease in the center. Line up this crease with the center of your scarf. Stitch the ribbon down along the longest edge of the triangle, as close to the edge of the fabric as you can get it. I like to stitch both long sides of the ribbon down to the fabric.

You can see the design of the fabric through the ribbon.  Isn’t that pretty?

And… voila!  You have a classic Melody Miller headscarf!

Okay, I’m gonna show you one more thing: how to make a reversible scarf with a pretty trim. It’s easy-peasy. Cut out 2 fabrics using your template. If you have a pretty piece of trim, pin it to the long side of one of the triangles, about 1/2″ away from the edge.

Sew the trim down. Put this triangle right-sides-together with the other, and sew all the way around with a 1/4″ seam allowance.  Leave a 4″ opening on one of the short sides.  Turn the scarf right side out, and press. Topstitch along all 3 sides with a 1/8″ seam allowance, closing the 4″ opening.  Attach ribbon to the opposite side from the trim according to the instructions above.

Now, let’s talk about the most important part of this project: how to wear your scarf.  I have many years of experience under my belt, and I’m willing to share some of my best tips here.

1) Do your ears poke out? Mine do. Make sure the scarf sits on top of your ears. See? Problem solved.

2) Does pulling baby hairs out of the back of your neck not sound like a good time?  Pin your hair up quickly before you tie the scarf on.  Then you can tie it happily with all your hair out of the way.  Do you look extra-awesome now? Leave your hair pinned up!  Not so much? Let it back down.

3) Do you look like you’re ready for a day of yard work?  Well, change your clothes, lady. Wear a cute outfit with your scarf… hello.

4) Having weird face or hair shape issues? (We never said this was effortless).  Push the scarf back so the front of your hair will show.  Don’t tie it too tight unless that flatters you, whereupon tie it tighter! Move your hair around until it has the right shape in combo with your scarf.  There, that’s better.

I hope to see lots of pics of people sporting their new scarves… Happy Holidays!

Surprise, Fat Quarterly readers!  Today is our second double project day in the 12 Days of Ruby Star, with Sharon’s take on an iPad case to complement the one from Amber posted earlier today.  Between the two tutorials, we hope you can find one to best meet your favorite sewing styles.  Enjoy!

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Hi Everyone! I am thrilled to be here on FatQuarterly! My name is Sha and I blog at Craizee Corners.

Here’s a little fact about me…I am ’Craizee’ about zippered bags. I make them in all different shapes and sizes. One of the my favorite bags to make is for my IPad, I like to change the case like I change purses, in other words to fit my mood and maybe to match my outfit. I am going to show you how I make IPad cases.

Materials needed:

• 1 zipper at least 12“
• 1 – 1 ½” x 8” piece of fabric to match the zipper
• Thread to match the zipper
• 1 – 22″ x 26”pieces of fabric for the inside of the bag
• 1 – 9 ½” x 11 ½” piece of fabric for the outside back (Piece B)
• 1 – 22” x 26” batting
• 1 – 9 ½” x 11 ½” front. This can be pieced however you want, but the end piece must be 9 ½” x 11 ½” (Piece A)

Now you should have 2 pieces that look like this:

Note: some of the pics I took with the Ruby Star fabric didn’t turn out well, so I am using other photos for some of the steps.

Sew across the zipper to keep the 2 pieces in place and then trim the close to the seam you just sewed. Then nestle the cut zipper piece inside the bias tape you just made and sew very close to the left side of the fold. No need for a zipper foot here. Trim the bias tape even with the edges of the zipper.

Measure across the top of the bag pieces, it should be 9 ½”, but measure to be sure. You want to cut the zipper 1” smaller than that measurement.

Note – Make sure the zipper pull is inside the zipper before you sew.

Adding the zipper:

Note – you do not need a zipper foot for this but I do recommend you use your all purpose foot and not your ¼” foot. You will be doing a zig zag stitch and the  ¼”  foot might not be able to do a zig zag stitch.

Lay the front of the bag outside piece up on your surface. Put the zipper with the pull side down along the top edge of the front of your bag. Make sure the zipper is centered along the top (about ½” in from the sides).

Sew along the top edge halfway between the zipper teeth and the edge. Backstitch a few stitches at the beginning and end of the seam.

Now it’s time to finish that raw edge. Set your machine to the zig-zag stitch and sew. The left side of the stitch will be on the fabric and the right side will be right past the fabric so the entire raw edge will be covered. When done select the straight stitch again.

Flip the zipper up so it is above the front of the bag and with a straight stitch sew a line right below the zipper, making sure to catch the finished edge of the zipper underneath.

Finish these raw edges with a zig zag stitch just like before.

Turn the bag right side out and you have a quilted IPad case.

Hi! I’m Wynn from zakkaArt and it’s my pleasure to share a really easy Christmas gift idea here at 12 days of Ruby Star FQ challenge.

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What you need (for 10cm x 10cm x 10cm box):

-        A fat quarter exterior fabric (or more if you are making bigger boxes)

-        A fat quarter interior/lining fabric (or more if you are making bigger boxes)

-        Batting/Fleece (light or medium weight)

-        Needle and coordinating thread (for handsewing)

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(*Note: 1cm seam allowance is included in the all measurements given)

First of all, cut out 12cm x 12cm squares from both the exterior and interior fabrics as well as the fleece batting. Five pieces each.

Now we’ll make the first wall of the box.

Lay the batting down first followed by the exterior fabric (right side up) and then the interior fabric (wrong side up).

Pin the three layers in place.

Then sew the three layers together using backstitch throughout, leaving a small gap (about 4-5cm).  Trim the corners.

Turn inside out. Make sure to take care of the corners too. Press with hot dry iron.

Stitch close the gap using ladder stitch.

Repeat the same procedure for the other four walls of the box.

Now that you have all the five walls nicely done, the only thing you need to do is to sew connect them together using ladder stitch.

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There you go! You have completed your very own organizer box! There are many sizes you can make and many ways you can jazz up your box such as adding embellishments (i.e. lace, beads, buttons).

Hope you will enjoy making these organizer boxes for your loved ones this Christmas. Thank you Fat Quarterly and Melody Miller for this awesome chance to share this tutorial with you!

Merry Christmas!

Hello Fat Quarterly readers from sunny, cold, and snowy York Region! My name is Michelle Southern and I’m the gal behind Kinetic Quilts. I’m so glad to be writing this tutorial for you today and hope you’ll be inspired to make a project of your own using Melody Miller’s awesome Ruby Star fabric.

I adore my long, comfy body pillow. They are a blessing to moms, people with joint pain, and anyone who likes to lounge around with a novel. The only trouble with mine is that when I bought it the only available pillow case was a polyester fabric that got quite static-y in the wash and wasn’t as pleasant as the crisp, cotton fabrics I use when quilting. I’d planned on making a new one but body pillows are long, and I didn’t want to “waste” the fabric that could be used in a quilt! However, when the opportunity came to use Melody Miller’s Ruby Star fabric in a project – any project I wanted – I jumped at the chance to showcase the big, bold, colourful prints in a quick and easy pattern that is suitable for the holiday gift-giving season.

Pillows have different standard sizes, but body pillows vary in length and fluffability. It’s best to measure your pillow to get correct measurements for yours, and decide on how tight or loose you want the fabric to be around it. Loose is better because the pillows do not slip into the cases as easy as regular pillows, but if it’s too loose (and I say this from experience) your legs will feel wrapped up in the excess. It’s up to you to decide; you’ll get a feel for it when measuring, depending on how loose the current pillowcase is. My pillow measured 53” x 16” but the old case was several inches more on all sides. To make the case I wanted, I would need to use the original pillow measurements, add in a 1/4″ (or more) seam allowance, plus a few extra inches on the sides – and factor in the “hang” of the pillowcase opening.

To re-create this pillowcase for yourself, piece together a rectangle that is 2” wider than your pillow and several inches longer with scraps and slices of your favourite fabrics. I used the fabrics graciously sent to me by Melody Miller plus a green cotton from Daisy Janie and a dark purple and black marbled batik. Lay out the stitched panels often to see how they look. Use a matching single panel of fabric for the back of the pillowcase to save time (or do a quick slice and add as I did). Use a single piece for the pillowcase opening if possible because you will be folding it back inside and top-stitching it in place. The best tip I can give you is this: add a long strip about 2″ wide to the bottom of the entire front panel, because when you set the pillow on its side this strip is hidden and your pieced fabrics are visible and centred as you meant them to be.

Put completed sections over pillow and check for drape, size:

This project took about 5 hours to make, and that includes the cutting, planning, and sewing (the scrappier your panels, the longer it will take). If you have a few hours to spare you can make a gorgeous, lounge-worthy body pillowcase that is easily whipped up for special occasions, as a gift, or an anytime treat for yourself. The Ruby Star fabrics, with their cross-stitch motifs and coffee pots and cheerful flowers, could also be used to make a wonderful bench pillow for your kitchen, or a cushion for a bay window reading nook. And you can also use it as a long super-sized gift bag if you need to! Just insert the item and tie a ribbon at the top. May you have a joyful holiday season and a safe, prosperous new year!

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Thanks so much for the great project idea, Michelle!  Michelle Southern is a writer and composer, and the quilter behind Kinetic Quilts and its innovative online quilt label system. She likes most of the same stuff you do and has a dog named Quincy. Visit one or both of them at http://kineticquilts.com

Hey there. My name is Cindy Wright. I’m the owner of Pattern Patti Sewing Patterns and I’m so pleased to have the opportunity to participate in the 12 days of Ruby Star FQ challenge. I’ve had such fun coming up with a great way to use Melody Miller’s fabulous fabric. This is what I’ve got for you.

All-Star Stockings in two sizes

The All-Star is a tube sock style stocking designed for the athlete or anyone who grew up in the 70’s or 80’s and wore tube socks with everything, like matching shorts or a bathing suit, perhaps. I have at least two acquaintances who match that description. I’m sure you do too. There’s no better fabric for such a project than Melody’s Ruby Star Rising. Very cool stuff!

Well, let’s get started. By the way, all seam allowances are ¼” and are included in the pattern pieces.

Materials needed:

Small amounts of fabric and fusible web, also called wonder under, for applying the applique.

Directions:

Print your pattern pages (found here) and cut out the patterns that you choose to use.

Using the patterns, cut out the fabric and fusible web. Cut 2 pieces of fabric for the exterior and 2 pieces of fabric for the liner. Follow the instructions on the applique pattern pieces for cutting the fabric and fusible web. Make sure you cut the fusible web so that the glue side is the right side. You’ll also need to cut a loop piece: 2”x5” for the small pattern and 3”x5” for the larger pattern.

Press your applique pieces to the fusible web. Once they have cooled to the touch, peel the paper from the back and arrange your applique pieces on the stocking the way you like. Press the pieces to the stocking.

Note: For my example today, I’ve only cut enough applique pieces for one side of the stocking. The instructions printed on the applique pieces tell you to cut enough for both sides of the stocking.

Use your favorite stitch and sew the applique pieces to your stocking. A straight stitch would work. A zig-zag stitch would be nice. I like the blanket stitch. It makes the applique pop.

Next, we need to make the loop. Take your loop piece to your ironing board. We’re going to fold this like a bias binding. Fold the loop in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Open to show the center fold line. Fold the bottom of the loop toward the center, matching the raw edge to the center fold line. Fold the top of the loop toward the center, matching the raw edge to the center fold line. Fold both halves together. Your loop piece is ready for stitching.

Using a 1/8” seam allowance, stitch along both long edges of the loop. This will keep it closed and make it pretty.

Now we’re ready to construct the stocking. Place your stocking exterior pieces together and liner pieces together, right sides together. Stitch around the perimeter of the stocking exterior, using a ¼” seam allowance. Be sure to leave the top open. Repeat with the liner, only this time, you’re also going to leave an opening on the back side that is about 2” long. After stitching together, clip the inside curve of the foot close to the stitches a few times and trim the toe and heel seam allowance to about 1/8”. Do this for the exterior and the liner. This allows for nice, smooth curves.

Turn your liner right side out. Slide the liner into the exterior piece so that right sides are together.

Make your loop piece into a loop by folding it. We’ll put it in place by sliding it between the exterior and the liner, folded end down, matching the raw edges of the loop and the liner/exterior. I placed mine on the back of the stocking, next to the back seam. Pin the loop in place.

Sew your liner and exterior together by stitching around the opening.

Pull your stocking liner out. Then, pull the exterior through the opening in the liner. Push out the toe and heel and make sure all of your curves are neat.

Fold the raw edges of the opening of the liner in and press them. Stitch the opening closed by hand for the neatest seam, or by machine for the lazy girl. That’s me.

Push the liner into the exterior. Press the stocking very neatly, especially the opening. Topstitch around the opening to finish it up.

Yay! You’re finished. These stockings will be great for small gifts like gift cards, iPods, candy and other yummy goodies.

Have fun and thanks so much to Fat Quarterly and Melody Miller for including me in the project. Be sure to pop by Patternpatti.com for more patterns perfect for gifts. Merry Christmas all!

No English Christmas dinner table is complete without the Christmas Cracker – it’s a delightful combination of the tacky and ridiculous – complete with terrible joke, nasty plastic gift and tissue paper paper hat. Using this festive item as inspiration, I wanted to come up with a simple fabric version that could be used in the traditional way, or as an fun way of wrapping a special Christmas or birthday gift…and Melody’s fabulous fabrics are the cherries on the top for this quick and easy make. And the other bonus? They can be used over and over again, so they’re eco friendly as well as cute!

You will need:

• 2 pieces of fabric 8.5 inches wide by 11.75 inches

• 2 pieces of cardboard tube (i used the inside of a kitchen towel) 4 inches long

• Several pieces of ribbon for ties in pretty colours – around 16 inches long

• Spray starch

• Iron

• Rotary cutter and ruler

• Scissors for cutting cardboard

• Tape

• Small amount of fusible web cut into strips

• Pencil

• Strong double sided tape

• Pinking shears or decorative scissors (optional)

Instructions:

1. Take one of the cardboard tubes and cut through it lengthways. Cut around half an inch off then tape back together to make a smaller tube. (See figure 1) Put aside for later.

2. Spray starch the fabric.

3. Put one of the pieces of fabric in front of you with the wrong side facing upwards and with the short sides top and bottom. Fold the top over by 3 inches and press. Use the fusible web to secure into place. Do the same to the other piece of fabric.

4. With the pencil, draw a line 1/2 an inch underneath the raw edge.

5. Draw another line on the opposite edge, 1 inch from the bottom.

6. Use this as a guide to fold the bottom edge up by 1/2 an inch. Press and secure with fusible web. Repeat on other piece of fabric. (See figure 2)

7. Trim the left hand side of the long edge using pinking shears or decorative scissors if required.

8. Place strips of doubled sided tape all over the fabric, making sure 1 piece is close to the ‘hem’ of the bottom edge, and 1 piece is close to the ‘decorative’ raw edge. (See figure 3)

9. Place one of the cardboard tubes on the edge of the fabric, lining it up exactly with the ‘hemmed’ edge and roll to wrap the tube completely in the fabric, ensuring a smooth finish. (See figure 4) Repeat with the other tube. (See figure 5)

10. Slot the thinner tube into the fatter one to ensure the fit. It should be snug but not tight.

11. Use the ribbons to tie one end fairly tightly. (See figure 6)

12. Tie the other end and admire your handiwork! (See figure 7)

13. Now fill your cracker with treats – and add a paper hat, terrible joke and a cracker snap if desired

TIPS:

You can decorate the top of the cracker any way you please – use fabric flowers, or wide ribbons to add extra embellishments!

Depending on the thickness of the fabric, you may find your cracker ends are a bit floppy – you can either add extra interfacing, or place a screwed up piece of tissue paper in the ends to help keep the shape on the festive table setting.

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Thanks, Lu!  You can find Lucie Summers, one of Moda Fabrics’ exciting new designers, at her blog, Summersville, and browse her adorable handmade wares at her Etsy shop of the same name.

Happy Holidays everyone! It’s starting to look and feel a lot like Christmas here in our house, lots of last minute panic shopping and making for emergency hostess and teacher gifts. These piped pillows make a lovely hostess gift simply tied with a ribbon and you can whip one up in no time at all. Adding piping adds a professional look to a pillow and is so much faster than binding.

The beauty of Melody’s fabrics is that you really don’t need to do anything extra to the prints to make them beautiful. I added a simple felt snowflake and a few buttons to jazz up this panel from Melody’s new collection, Ruby Star Shining….

For this pillow I let the fabric (Bloom Springtime from Ruby Star Spring) sing and do it’s own thing…

I just wish I was faster at cross stitching, because once this bee is all stitched up it’s going to look pretty cool as a pillow, I think!

Want to make a piped pillow? Here’s how you do it:

Decide how big you want your pillow to be and cut a square of Ruby Star fabric to that size, plus ½ inch (I wanted 18” pillows so I cut 18 ½” squares for my pillow fronts)

You will also need:

• A pillow form
• A fat quarter of fabric for the piping (I used Lizzy House Outfoxed in jewel and coral – they match perfectly!)
• Piping cord (this is easily available at most craft stores or haberdashery departments and is really cheap)
• A zipper foot
• Your sewing machine

First up, cut your fat quarter into bias strips and sew into one long length – do this by cutting diagonally across the FQ – not straight. You can find a great tip for cutting continuous bias strips by following this link to SewMamaSew.

To make the piping cord fold the bias strip wrong sides together and pop the cord as tightly as you can get it into the fold. Pinning helps keep it in place. Leave a little tail of bias strip at the start of around 2 or 3 inches. Start sewing with your zipper foot on and your needle position as far to the left as possible. Keep your foot cozied up right next to the cord.

Once you have your piping all stitched, pin it to the right side of your pillow front, raw edges together. Ease it around the corners, and pin pin pin all the way round.
Using the zipper foot in the same far left needle position stitch the piping onto the pillow front and try to hit the same line of stitches again. If you can get on those same stitches your piping will look much neater at the end.

Finish a couple of inches from where you started and fold the end of the tail under and tuck the other end of the piping into it. Trim down if necessary. Pin and finish stitching round, until you get to where you started.

Layer your choice of pillow back (I used an envelope back) and pillow front right sides together and stitch all the way round, still using your zipper foot with the needle in the same far left position and sewing right on the same line of stitching as before.

Flip right sides out and stuff with a pillow form and admire your handiwork!

Many thanks to Melody for designing these wonderful fabrics and also to Kate from M is for Make for providing Ruby Star Spring Bee fabric (which is available for sale in her shop along with a selection of other Ruby Star fabrics!)